Once I had gone over the whole slab once there were still low areas where the router couldn't reach so I increased the depth of the cut and repeated the process to get down to these low areas and further level the slab.Īfter everything is levelled and looks flat there were tool markings from the router, which using my orbital sander I sanded out using 80 grit discs. ( in some places the router may not be set deep enough to cut as the slab is uneven by nature but these areas will be addressed on the next pass). With the routers depth set to remove no more than 5mm at a time, (so its easier and safer no chance of sticking or tearing) I used a back and forth motion across the surface of the slab to cut away material, moving along the slab slightly left to right after every pass. Once it was secure I placed my sled over the slab spanning from rail to rail and placed the router on top. If it does rock there's a chance that the router will cut too deep in some places and I'll have to remove a lot more material than I want to. Now to level the slab I placed it in my sled setup on the bench top, using small pieces of scrap timber and shims to try get it as level as possible and prevent it from rocking and moving when cutting with the router. If you want to flatten large pieces of wood however then it is a very good solution for those of us that don't have industrial size planers and sanders. It works for me but is by no means perfect and I've seen much better examples on here that other people have made.
I then have an old steel CD rack frame as the sled that my router sits on with two guide rails either side to stop it coming off. I won't go in to too much detail about my sled but its basically two lengths of 2" x 3" running parallel to one another, screwed to my bench, with enough room between for the slab. The easiest way to do this was to use my router with a flat cutting bit in, running it over the surface of the slab using my homemade router sled.
Wood continually adapts to its surrounding atmosphere so slight movement can occur.My first job on this table was to level and flatten my newly acquired piece of Cherry. Please note that wood moves as its moisture content changes. Collection option available during check out.Ī damp cloth is an efficient way of removing surface dirt and won't do any harm if you work quickly and wipe it with a dry cloth. Just be careful not to soak it. Mop up any spills quickly, don't leave spilled liquids standing. Always use coasters. Don't use cleaning products as they can strip the protective properties of the finish. Please use our quote form to send an enquiry. When steel is recycled, there is no down-grading. The clear powder coat results in an almost invisible protective layer. Steel is a uniquely sustainable material because once it is made it can be used, as steel, for ever. Your chosen style of two fitted industrial legs with protector feet. Available in clear coat or black.Īll powder coats are satin finish and provide a tough protective layer. It enhances the natural look and feel of the wood and is environmentally friendly. Available in Pure, Cotton White, Chocolate and Charcoal.
LIVE EDGE COFFEE TABLE LEGS PLUS
The top is finished with Rubio® Monocoat Oil Plus 2C, which has great durability and is easily maintained. The top is 30-35mm thick and made from solid, sustainably sourced, prime oak. Throughout each stage of the build process, timber is carefully selected, nurtured and crafted by our very own hands.
Choose from 4 sizes, 4 wood colour finishes and 6 leg styles. Did we mention how beautiful this piece is? And it's fully customisable too. A practical place for coffees, magazines, remotes or flowers, all in easy reach. Choose this statement piece to be the focal point in your room.
This popular, on trend coffee table makes a stylish addition to a contemporary living space.
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