Look out for the black scabbardfish on menus (a white fish that’s prepared in many different ways) as well as the limpets served in garlic butter (like a cross between mussels and snails). Unsurprisingly considering that you can see the ocean from almost everywhere, fish and seafood are to be found in every traditional Madeiran restaurant. It doesn’t hit the mark every time, but deserves a mention for fulfilling a niche in the neighbourhood. On the Lido side of town, the Loft has a large sunny terrace, decent coffee, fresh juices and avocado-on-toast type dishes.
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Luckily, the food does justice to the funky, botanic zen interior: I loved the fresh juices, eggs any which way, and generous bowls full of veggies, protein and tasty dressings. Hipster heaven in the heart of Funchal centre, Prima Caju is dripping with foliage and wicker furniture.
They are dog-friendly too (as is Land, above, for that matter) which is a bonus when travelling with your canine companion, as we were. Art Food CornerĪt the bottom of the cable car in the Old Town, Art Food Corner is a hippie hangout with a killer macchiato and a delicious (vegan) hummus bowl. I also enjoyed their cheesecake, sandwiches, salads and pretty much everything else I tried. Fruity, well-rounded and the perfect temperature. The exceptions to this rule are included in my recommendations below… LandĪt the top of the cable car in Monte, this sleek café serves hands-down the best coffee on the island. Better to order a chinesa (a long white coffee) or a garoto (an espresso with a shot of milk). If you’re looking for a cappuccino, asking for one might get you a coffee with whipped cream on top. The coffee in Madeira is generally pretty good, but for some reason it’s generally served at nuclear temperatures! Let it cool down for a minute before attempting to get your morning caffeine fix. I’ve grouped my Funchal restaurant recommendations into various categories – from brunch cafés and snackbars to traditional restaurants and international cuisine – to make it a little easier to navigate, depending on what you’re looking for. Plus, you can find everything from Japanese sushi to American BBQ, so you won’t get bored of the Madeiran staples either. That said, Funchal is fantastic for pescatarians and those who love their steak.
But don’t come to Madeira expecting cutting-edge gastronomy: much of what you’ll see on restaurant menus feels like it’s been transported from the 1990s, and vegetarian visitors won’t find a whole lot of choice. Restaurants in Funchal are generally good value (much more affordable than Amsterdam), the food is fresh and local, and the service is the friendliest I’ve ever encountered.
I loved the Old Town in the east end of the city, but many prefer the Lido area to the west. We were staying in Funchal – the biggest city in Madeira and the ideal jumping off point for exploring the island. It’s a Portuguese paradise, and I’m already nostalgic thinking of its vivid greens, salty air and floral scents. I spent six weeks on the island this past winter, and to say I fell in love with the place would be an understatement. Home to Jurassic landscapes, endlessly changing weather conditions, lethally strong Poncha and ultra-fresh fish.
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